Two Weeks Painting the South of France - Part 1
Peek-a-Boo Lavender was painted in a cabañon in the lavender field in Valensole. There were so many moments and hours like this. I can't wait to return.
It seems the whole year I was trying to figure out a way to get back to the South of France to paint. Making it tough was an intense summer schedule of painting in plein air competitions sandwiched between art shows that make up my "usual" year. I wanted to get there in lavender season that's unpredictable at best but sometime in June until maybe mid-July in the Valensole region. My only opening was in early June until the third week when we'd head onto Telluride Colorado for Telluride Plein Air.
In my "usual" year, I would be setting up my booth in Rittenhouse Square in Philly that first weekend in June. Instead I'd been sitting on the waitlist for the show and finally it didn't look like that would change. On Thursday, June 4th -- Randy and I booked our flights, accommodations and rental car for a last-minute two-week trip to Nice and Aix-en-Provence leaving on Sunday, June 7th. Prior to committing to that, all packing and preparations for Telluride Plein air had to be in place since there would be no time to handle that once back home (for a day). I was motivated. It wasn't time to do my usual hemming and hawing.
This is what "happened" over 14 days in France. Let's look at them ... one by one.
The trip was my "ahhh" time before the nonstop plein air competitions and more intense "work" to come. (It would be immediately followed by two weeks in Telluride CO, then my first time participating in Plein Air Easton (8 -1/2 days there), then the 16-hour drive to Door County WI for that weeklong painting event. I needed this sweet time before all of that.
Plus, the lavender might be in bloom. (I didn't want it to do that without me. Kind of kidding?)
Almost there. :)
Day 1: Nice, France - June 8th
Exploring and Painting #1 - On the Rocks
We arrived in Nice bright and early the morning of June 8 for a three-night and three days of painting (with some exploring and eating) stay. I'd found a fantastic airbnb apartment there in the heart of the Old City, right at Place Messena. It takes a little bit of time to find the place to pick up our keys, then the apartment, load in those gigantic suitcase and take a nap in our new digs.
Then we took off to explore. Nice is familiar -- at least this part of it. But no matter where I am -- it takes a lot of looking and thinking to discover what just must be painted that day.
We visited the Cours Saleya market, walked the Promenade Anglais and the beaches below it. Eventually I'd come back and paint this scene there on the beach. (I don't bring along my painting gear on that initial scouting expedition. I pick my spot then go back and retrieve it.)
Here's Randy with my purple rolling suitcase/studio heading for the beach to set up for painting On the Rocks
Painting #1: On the Rocks (Nice, Italy), oil on linen panel, 8 x 10 in. painted plein air on the "beach" below the Promenade Anglais
Nice used to be where we landed and then took off for the adventure. Then we stayed there for a short visit on a longer trip and loved it. Now I wish I could stay longer and longer. Problem is I feel that way about everywhere we go.
For On the Rocks, I sat and painted -- because that was the right perspective to capture everyone one else sitting or lounging there at the beach. (The beach is really a pile of shifting rocks. I can't quite envision lying out on a beach towel there.) It is always my intention to transport you to that place. The viewpoint has to be just right to do so. After all these years, I feel it when some place is the perfect spot to linger. To capture life there.
The title for this piece, On the Rocks, is so appropriate. Notice the beach?
On the Rocks - click the title or image for more info on this piece. Available.
Day 2: Nice, France - June 9th
Cours Saleya and a Nocturne in Place Messena -- Paintings #2 & 3: Marché des Fleurs and Night Time in Nice
I knew that painting the extraordinary flower market at Cours Saleya was up next. Even though I wandered every inch of that market testing out every possible place to set up my easel -- it was inevitable that this particular stall would win out. My view and orientation was different than I've captured in the past. There is generally a practical element to choosing my spot. Am I going to be run over? Am I in anyone's way? Any chance to find shade? What worked once is likely not to work again. Somehow vendors are not designing their setups with me in mind.
Capturing the flower market at Cours Saleya in Nice
The flowers I had to take home with me -- with the colors of Provence
Painting #2: Marché des Fleurs, 12 x 24 in., oil on linen panel. Private collection.
I did rework this piece once back home after peering at it for a bit. The candy-striped awnings are a favorite part of this old market so they became emphasized. All my main characters remained the same but the background "noise" was quieted to make them stand out. I'm never looking to match details. This is all about feeling and the beautiful dance of the day.
For my second painting of the day, I chose to set up to capture the splash fountain that's there in the square. The night lights on the hill beyond it are beautiful. With a full day in the market (and still jet-lagged), a nocturne was in store.
There might have been a conspiracy in the works regarding the fountain and my chances of capturing it. It was tricky -- and I’m thankful to have been there before to have witnessed it with kids splashing and water spurting.
Painting #3: Night Time in Nice in progress, 9 x 12 in., oil on linen panel.
A sign that I'm still catching my breath from the summer full of painting is that this piece has yet to be photographed and added to my website. Note the photograph is poor ... but you can see the canvas better than I could that night.
Day 3: Nice, France - June 10th
Back to the Fountain and My Goodbye (to Nice) for Now Painting -- Paintings #4 & 5: Water Dance and Bonne Nuit
It's Day 3 and the last one in Nice. I love this city by the sea and am going to miss it. It helps that there are many adventures ahead.
I wanted to see the fountain again in person. I started a new painting. Daytime version. Different size.
This time there was a little bit of time with the fountain turned on and kids playing. Wrongly, I assumed that would continue all afternoon but I soon had to move from inside the fence to outside. Everybody out. Gates closed.
The water park emptied too soon and unexpectedty -- so outside the gates I go to try to recapture the memory
Not speaking the language necessitates taking cues from others’ actions and not knowing why something is happening. Why did the park close? A special event ahead? Maintenance? National holiday? It’s all a mystery but also a part of the adventure. I just play along and am happy that my “studio” is so portable.
Painting #4: Water Dance, 12 x 16 in., oil on linen panel. Available? Click the image for more info.
My next painting is my way of saying goodbye to Nice, squeezing in the last painting session (for now) there in the heart of Old Town.
Working on my goodbye-for-now painting of Nice.
My decision on where to paint was based on what spot “felt like” it might be open the latest. I wagered well. A birthday celebration gathering happened while I was there and people lingered.
Painting away, I was aware of the other al fresco dining shutting down – with tables and chairs stacked and pulled in closer. It was such a treat watching the sky move from the beautiful blue of dusk to darkness. Each painting has a past on these trips. Right beyond the arched opening in the back was that elusive fountain off on the left. A ways beyond that was the Cours Saleya market and to the right is the promenade with its beach and the sea.
Considering that I’d walked all over town selecting my spots to paint – the chosen destinations were within a short distance from each other.
Painting #5: Bonne Nuit, 10 x 8 in., oil on linen panel. Available? Click the image for more info.
I have so much more I’d love to paint here – and miss the ones that didn’t make it to the canvas yet. They will have to wait … for now.
Day 4: Villefranche-Sur-Mer, France - June 11th
The Road to Aix-en-Provence Enchants -- Paintings #6 & 7: Love of the Sea and Day to Remember
Bye, Nice!
It was time to head off in the direction of Aix-en-Provence. But ... with a planned and very long, glorious day soaking up the beauty while painting Villefranche-sur-Mer along the way.
Hello, Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer is a magical town.
I was just going to be there for one daytime’s stretch of painting. I'd make the most of that day.
I had wanted to paint the beach there in Villefranche-sur-Mer but that hadn’t worked out in past visits due to iffy (rainy) weather. June 11th was a gorgeous day. Perfect in my book!
Because this trip was shorter than I’d ideally like), to maximize my time painting we visited towns and sites I already knew (versus exploring brand new ones to me). In Villefranche-sur-Mer, I wandered the whole crescent of beach and easily could have selected so many spectacular paintings to be … including three just spinning around from the spot of earth I ultimately claimed for a viewpoint. Three wasn't possible. Even I had to acknowledge that.
The scene before me that became Love of the Sea was grand and my time was short. To match the grand aspect, I pulled out my 18 by 24 inch canvas -- the largest size that fits in and out of my suitcase. I wasn't going to be able to come close to finishing it there ... and was determined to also get in a second painting in that enchanting spot.
Painting #6: Love of the Sea in progress at Villefranche-sur-Mer. This would be as far as it would go on location.
It’s tough to come up with new titles that reflect the feeling of being there. (I painted a well-loved piece in Key West quite a few years ago named Love by the Sea.) I’m certain everyone here on the beach, on a boat, dining by the sea, or painting away – all had the same true love of those turquoise waters.
Painting #6: Love of the Sea, 18 x 24 in., oil on linen panel. Private collection.
This was one of the hardest pieces of mine to finish back home – because I longed to be there. To put myself back there, we purchased a new top-of-the-line ipad and downloaded Procreate software. I took a photo of my unfinished painting, pulled it up in Procreate – and then painted, with my fingers and software palette on top of the photo.
I wasn’t relying on photos from the scene (which are few and far between and look nothing like that beautiful place). Instead, I was working from memory, choreographing a dance of umbrellas and people – and enjoying every moment. My digital painting became my source to finish Love of the Sea. A revelation!
Have to Paint One More
While painting Love of the Sea, the scene to my right -- a pivot away -- was calling with the water reflecting the sparkle of the soon to be setting sun. Everything about it whispered that this beautiful day was about to be done.
From start to finish on Day to Remember, my second painting in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Painting #7: Day to Remember, 12 x 16 in., oil on linen panel. Private collection. Sometimes its hard to believe places like this exist. So glad they do.
The sun dipping, restaurant closing and emptying beaches all dictated closing up shop for the day (versus any self-restraint on my part.) I’d watched both scenes unfold in slow motion and felt everything.
Thanks to my wanting to capture every drop of the day in Villefranche-sur-Mer, we arrived late and tired in Aix-en-Provence. It being late night and not speaking French – complicates finding the key and then apartment. We made it – but still had to park the car outside the old town and walk back before making it to bed. Phew!
Day 5: Aix-en-Provence, France - June 12th
Paintings #8: Frais Fruits of the Produce Shop
Aix-en-Provence feels like home. No longer near the sea, it was time to embrace the Provençal light and patina – capture the warmth of town.
Working on Frais Fruits of the produce shop on Rue d'Italie in Aix-en-Provence.
This shop has been a subject of previous paintings but each one has been unique. This trip’s Airbnb was centered more around the Rue d'Italie than the Cours Mirabeau. They are just short steps from each other (and I love both) but my world on these trips revolve around what’s right outside my door. I had a new “neighborhood.” I love this painting .. the same feeling it evoked while creating it.
Painting #8: Frais Fruits, 16 x 12 in., oil on linen panel. Private collection.
Rue d'Italie is one of the oldest streets in Aix and all of France. It feels like it.
TO BE CONTINUED
I plan on continuing this day-by-day remembrance of this trip to the South of France. Look for a Part 2 and 3 to come ... and other notes added to this one.
French Paintings Collection
